When I flip the switch of the power supply the standby power led on
the motherboard (ASUS F1A75) turns on, stays on for a bit and then
dies. If I then try again, nothing happens. I have to turn off the
power switch (power supply), leave it off and then try again. I can
get in the BIOS shortly (all fans are blowing) and then power's gone
again.
I checked all cables and they should be fine. What could be causing this
and how to solve?
Do you have a spare power supply?
Can you check the CPU temperatures in the BIOS?
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 16:28:56 +0100, Marco Moock wrote:
Do you have a spare power supply?
I may have one around that I could use, but it's going to take some time
if I want to try this.
Can you check the CPU temperatures in the BIOS?
On the rare occasion I can enter the BIOS it's not long enough to check
the CPU temperature.
CPU too hot, leading to immediate shutdown?
You forgot to mention the brand and model of the motherboard, and those
of the power supply!
I've got a computer I haven't used for some time. I took out a hdd (D:)
and left it alone. I'm trying to get it to work again, but it just dies
on me. I've reinstalled the missing hdd and replaced the BIOS battery.
When I flip the switch of the power supply the standby power led on the motherboard (ASUS F1A75) turns on, stays on for a bit and then dies. If
I then try again, nothing happens. I have to turn off the power switch
(power supply), leave it off and then try again. I can get in the BIOS shortly (all fans are blowing) and then power's gone again.
I checked all cables and they should be fine. What could be causing this
and how to solve?
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 16:19:46 +0100, s|b wrote:
I checked all cables and they should be fine. What could be causing this
and how to solve?
Forget to mention: I connected a little speaker to the motherboard and
when I (try to) boot it beeps once, indicating the motherboard should be
OK. There's a MemOK! switch that shows a red light, but only for a
moment.
I've got a computer I haven't used for some time. I took out a hdd (D:)
and left it alone. I'm trying to get it to work again, but it just dies
on me. I've reinstalled the missing hdd and replaced the BIOS battery.
When I flip the switch of the power supply the standby power led on the motherboard (ASUS F1A75) turns on, stays on for a bit and then dies. If
I then try again, nothing happens. I have to turn off the power switch
(power supply), leave it off and then try again. I can get in the BIOS shortly (all fans are blowing) and then power's gone again.
I checked all cables and they should be fine. What could be causing this
and how to solve?
I clearly stated which motherboard it was in the OP:
ASUS F1A75
<https://www.asus.com/supportonly/f1a75/helpdesk_manual/>
Power supply: Antec model EA-380D GREEN 380W
I clearly stated which motherboard it was in the OP:
ASUS F1A75
<https://www.asus.com/supportonly/f1a75/helpdesk_manual/>
...
2) Use a clamp-on ammeter, to monitor the +5VSB wire on the main cable.
I try to keep a spare PSU in the house, but it's tough.
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:
...
2) Use a clamp-on ammeter, to monitor the +5VSB wire on the main cable.
For typical clamp meters, those rely on alternating current to fluctate
the magnetic field around the conductor; i.e., the common clamp meter
just measures AC. The 5V standby line is DC, not AC. With the
20/24-pin connector from PSU pushed onto the mobo (to account for any
load), use a voltmeter to measure DC voltage from the +5VSB line (pin 9, purple) to a ground pin (black).
I can't think of any AC inside the computer excluding the input circuit
in the PSU. Power into the PSU is AC. All lines out of the PSU are DC.
DC also induces a magnetic field around the conductor, but not a
fluctuating magnetic field. An AC clamp meter using a transformer wound through the closing fingers of the clamp won't work on a DC wire. For
DC, a Hall effect sensor can measure the magnetic field: the magnetic
field induces a current in the sensor. However, those are inaccurate.
When measuring hundreds of amperes passing through a conductor, you
don't care if the actual current is different by several amps. When measuring 20A, or especially milliamps, the reading in the meter is so inaccurate that it amounts to using a continuity tester to see there is
a connection versus how many ohms there are between the 2 points of
contact. Both AC clamp-on meters and DC Hall effect meters measure by conversion, not direct readings. Magnetic field intensity decreases exponentially by distance, and the huge space inside the fingers of the
clamp means the reading changes if you reposition the wire from the
center of the gap to closer to the wire, and it's never accurate,
anyway.
You and I may have AC and AC/DC clamp meters, but I suspect the OP does
not. A good AC clamp meter at Home Depot costs $60 to $120. A good DC
clamp meter greatly hikes the price to $500, and up.
I try to keep a spare PSU in the house, but it's tough.
I tried the same using a modular PSU, so I only need to connect enough
cables to the PSU as were needed for the particular build. But
eventually it got used in the next build. A $150+ PSU makes for an
expensive parts drawer. For an emergency, I'll pay for overnight or
2-day delivery rather than buy a PSU that may never get used. However,
I have other computers to use, so I go with free delivery in 5 days.
On Fri, 11/22/2024 12:28 AM, VanguardLH wrote:
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:
...
2) Use a clamp-on ammeter, to monitor the +5VSB wire on the main cable.
For typical clamp meters, those rely on alternating current to fluctate
the magnetic field around the conductor; i.e., the common clamp meter
just measures AC. The 5V standby line is DC, not AC. With the
20/24-pin connector from PSU pushed onto the mobo (to account for any
load), use a voltmeter to measure DC voltage from the +5VSB line (pin 9,
purple) to a ground pin (black).
I can't think of any AC inside the computer excluding the input circuit
in the PSU. Power into the PSU is AC. All lines out of the PSU are DC.
DC also induces a magnetic field around the conductor, but not a
fluctuating magnetic field. An AC clamp meter using a transformer wound
through the closing fingers of the clamp won't work on a DC wire. For
DC, a Hall effect sensor can measure the magnetic field: the magnetic
field induces a current in the sensor. However, those are inaccurate.
When measuring hundreds of amperes passing through a conductor, you
don't care if the actual current is different by several amps. When
measuring 20A, or especially milliamps, the reading in the meter is so
inaccurate that it amounts to using a continuity tester to see there is
a connection versus how many ohms there are between the 2 points of
contact. Both AC clamp-on meters and DC Hall effect meters measure by
conversion, not direct readings. Magnetic field intensity decreases
exponentially by distance, and the huge space inside the fingers of the
clamp means the reading changes if you reposition the wire from the
center of the gap to closer to the wire, and it's never accurate,
anyway.
You and I may have AC and AC/DC clamp meters, but I suspect the OP does
not. A good AC clamp meter at Home Depot costs $60 to $120. A good DC
clamp meter greatly hikes the price to $500, and up.
I try to keep a spare PSU in the house, but it's tough.
I tried the same using a modular PSU, so I only need to connect enough
cables to the PSU as were needed for the particular build. But
eventually it got used in the next build. A $150+ PSU makes for an
expensive parts drawer. For an emergency, I'll pay for overnight or
2-day delivery rather than buy a PSU that may never get used. However,
I have other computers to use, so I go with free delivery in 5 days.
I have an AC/DC clamp meter with Hall Probe technology that
is every bit as good as your Harbor Freight multimeter,
Mine will measure
That meter, is the most expensive meter in the house, at around $300
or so.
You could make the measurement with a Harbor Freight meter too.
But it would mean buying a 24 pin extension cable for ATX, cutting
the +5VSB wire in two, and inserting the meter in-circuit. Which is
why I don't suggest doing it that way. It interferes with circuit
operation, and if the wire opens, the PC goes off.
Wow... that's an old AMD motherboard, and it's socket FM1.
I got an older Asus M3N78 PRO (socket AM2) still kicking though... quite surprising. :)
Power supply: Antec model EA-380D GREEN 380W
I had used the same power supply. It did fail after not being powered on
for months.
Speaking of AMD motherboard in that cold era of AMD history, I got a
dead Asus M5A99X EVO. It worked for years and then suddenly, it could no longer get pass CPU test. That socket AM3 board belonged to the same era
as your socket FM1 motherboard, and both used DDR3 memory modules.
The single beep on cold boot is notifying the video BIOS loaded. Before
the mobo BIOS can load, the video BIOS has to load (so you can see the
POST screen, BIOS settings, and the OS loading).
Without knowing the brand and model of motherboard, not sure what a
MemOK LED might indicate.
Were you inside the case touching stuff without being
properly grounded?
Unplug and reseat the DIMM
memory modules, and make sure they are fully seated. Did you change the position (slots) of any DIMM modules?
If you are overclocking, DON'T.
Reset the BIOS (short the 2-pin mobo
header) to ensure you are using standard settings.
Don't try to boot with the old HDD installed into the computer. Leave
out the old HDD, and boot with no drive installed. The computer should
still boot, you get a beep saying the video BIOS loaded okay, the fans
all spin, but there will be a message on the screen saying something
like "boot device not found". Getting that far means the system would
come up if it found an OS on one of the drives configured in BIOS.
Got a multimeter or voltmeter to check the voltages on the 20/24-pin connector from PSU to mobo?
After replacing the CMOS battery, did you reset the CMOS table (to avoid corruption of its settings, and restore them from EEPROM)?
When you apply power, do the fans spin, especially the CPU fan? Or do
they just wiggle a little, and stop? Or not spin at all?
Used air cans to dust out the inside, like the heatsinks on the CPU and
GPU? If those are filthy, or not well secured to the CPU and GPU, or
the thermal paste has dried out, the heat from the chip cannot get
dissipated from the heatsink
When powering up, also check the PSU fan spins. If not, it also has
thermal protection.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 12:43:13 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
Were you inside the case touching stuff without being
properly grounded?
You mean like the thingy on my wrist? No.
Got a multimeter or voltmeter to check the voltages on the 20/24-pin
connector from PSU to mobo?
That's above my skill. I know how to build a PC and what each part does
(more or less), but that's about it.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 12:22:45 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
After replacing the CMOS battery, did you reset the CMOS table (to avoid
corruption of its settings, and restore them from EEPROM)?
I did the reset, but don't remember if that was before or after I
replaced the battery. Will do it again.
When you apply power, do the fans spin, especially the CPU fan? Or do
they just wiggle a little, and stop? Or not spin at all?
CPU fan, case fan, power supply fan, graphic card fan, they all spin at
high speed, but only for a few seconds.
Used air cans to dust out the inside, like the heatsinks on the CPU and
GPU? If those are filthy, or not well secured to the CPU and GPU, or
the thermal paste has dried out, the heat from the chip cannot get
dissipated from the heatsink
I'm beginning to think this could be it. Wouldn't there be warning beeps though?
When powering up, also check the PSU fan spins. If not, it also has
thermal protection.
Last time I checked it spinned, but I will take extra notice next time.
On Fri, 22 Nov 2024 11:42:23 +0800, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
Wow... that's an old AMD motherboard, and it's socket FM1.
I got an older Asus M3N78 PRO (socket AM2) still kicking though... quite
surprising. :)
I've got an even older PC that I used to play around with Linux Mint,
Tails, Kali Linux, Puppy Linux, ...
Power supply: Antec model EA-380D GREEN 380W
I had used the same power supply. It did fail after not being powered on
for months.
The power supply that I have available is even older, but I know it
works. Question is if I can use. Connectors seem the same.
On Fri, 22 Nov 2024 11:47:38 +0800, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
Speaking of AMD motherboard in that cold era of AMD history, I got a
dead Asus M5A99X EVO. It worked for years and then suddenly, it could no
longer get pass CPU test. That socket AM3 board belonged to the same era
as your socket FM1 motherboard, and both used DDR3 memory modules.
Maybe it's (real) bugs? ;-)
"flip the switch... standby power led on ASUS F1A75... stays on for a bit and then dies"
The power supply consists of two halves.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 15:58:30 -0500, Paul wrote:
"flip the switch... standby power led on ASUS F1A75... stays on for a bit and then dies"
The power supply consists of two halves.
It's a bit too technical for me, but I appreciate the response. I'd
expect the PSU to either work or not. Is the behaviour that I'm
experiencing possible with a broken PSU?
I'm going to replace the thermal paste of the CPU first and see what
happens.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 15:58:30 -0500, Paul wrote:
"flip the switch... standby power led on ASUS F1A75... stays on for a bit and then dies"
The power supply consists of two halves.
It's a bit too technical for me, but I appreciate the response. I'd
expect the PSU to either work or not. Is the behaviour that I'm
experiencing possible with a broken PSU?
I'm going to replace the thermal paste of the CPU first and see what
happens.
On Fri, 22 Nov 2024 00:18:24 +0800, Mr. Man-wai Chang wrote:
CPU too hot, leading to immediate shutdown?
When it starts all fans start blowing, CPU fan included. I'm not saying
it's impossible, but the tower was untouched after I took out the hard
drive. No loose cables (so it seems).
You forgot to mention the brand and model of the motherboard, and those
of the power supply!
I clearly stated which motherboard it was in the OP:
ASUS F1A75
<https://www.asus.com/supportonly/f1a75/helpdesk_manual/>
Power supply: Antec model EA-380D GREEN 380W
When I flip the switch of the power supply the standby power led on the motherboard (ASUS F1A75) turns on, stays on for a bit and then dies.
I'm going to replace the thermal paste of the CPU first and see what happens.
Make sure to use non-metallic paste. Use ceramic. Since you're not overclocking, you won't achieve a one to three degree decrease in temperature, anyway. Not overclocking already reduced heat generation.
Also, make sure it is thermal PASTE, not thermal adhesive which is an
epoxy.
You'll need a piece of mylar or other thin plastic to apply the paste.
A credit card is too rough on its edges. You want a shear coat, not an opaque coat.
I've seen many techniques suggested for applying the correct amount of thermal paste. One is to use a piece of thin mylar to spread around the paste to coat a thin layer you can see through. Another is to put one
drop in the middle of the CPU plate, or 5 tiny drops in the center and
at midway to the corners, to push down the heatsink to rotate and spread
the paste. If any oozes out paste the CPU plate, you put on too much
which also means there is likely too much between CPU and heatsink.
You'll need isopropyl alcohol and a plastic scraper to remove the old
paste. Make sure the CPU plate and heatsink are devoid of any old paste
or thermal pad, and are clean. After cleaning, keep your fingers off.
Considering your lack of electronic test equipment, I suspect paste
might not be the way for you to go. A thermal pad gets squeezed between
CPU plate and heatsink, won't ooze out, and liquifies (melts) under
pressure and heat. Considering how many users apply way too much paste,
and if not overclocking, a pad is just as good. I've never gotten into
pads, but https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BhKx0iQ4K8 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niAQs8dZohE look interesting. Despite
the claim reusability of the graphic pad, I'd never reuse one. I'd
replace it just I would replace paste. I'm not building and rebuilding hundreds of boxes.
Personally I'd go with the PSU substitution suggestion first.
The load
a PSU can handle with proper regulation varies with age, and crappy PSUs
age faster. Replacing thermal paste isn't a job for a newbie. I always
lap the CPU plate and heatsink to get them as flat as possible for best mating since metal-to-metal contact is by far the best method for
thermal transfer. However, rare few users lap their CPU and heatsink.
I don't overclock, but do want thermal transfer to work best, and want
the least amount of paste since it also ages.
Although the focus has been on the paste, another facet of concern is if
the clamping of the heatsink is even. You don't want to cinch down one
side more than the other. That will squeeze out more paste on one side,
but leave too much on the side with less pressure. You want paste to substitute for air, not thermal paste to be the primary transfer media.
Just change the PSU and retest :-)
I've done that a few times, as a first step.
Never hurts to change thermal paste. Especially the hobby non-permanent kind.
On Sat, 23 Nov 2024 07:07:35 -0500, Paul wrote:
Just change the PSU and retest :-)
I've done that a few times, as a first step.
Yes, I just read VanguardLH's advice, but it's too late; i already
removed the paste from the CPU and heatsink.
Never hurts to change thermal paste. Especially the hobby non-permanent kind.
Is Arctic MX-4 any good?
I think I'm going to go with the one dot method while keeping in mind:
less is more. I'll practice on a napkin first.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 16:19:46 +0100, s|b wrote:
When I flip the switch of the power supply the standby power led on the
motherboard (ASUS F1A75) turns on, stays on for a bit and then dies.
These should be all components:
CPU: AMD-A8-3870 BLACK EDITION WITH RADEON HD 6550D
Tower/PSU: ANTEC-NSK4482B-EC 380 WATT
Graphic card: AMD-AP38G160U2K
SSD: INTEL-SSDSC2CW120A310 120GB 520 SERIES 34NM SATA III2 .
HDD: WESTERN DIGITAL-WD5000AAKX 500GB 16MB SATA600 7200RPM
CD/DVD (re)writer: LITE-ON-IHAS122-18 SATA 22X DVD-RW
Here's another guy gobbing
on way too much thermal paste: https://youtu.be/a0LlMDk_ljQ?t=12.
No, you don't generally spread them with a credit card any more.
You don't want too much shooting out of the gap,
as then it's a mess to clean up later if it gets
into the wrong places on the motherboard.
I have a tube of AS-5 here, and it's suitable for
applying dots (according to what the manufacturer
recommends for each processor type), then just seat
the heatsink in it and tighten it up. Some processors
only use a central dot. Some processors are convex,
some processors are flat on top, which is why the
dot pattern recommendation varies.
It is for this reason, that I recommend third party HS
assemblies which allow removal and re-seating of the
heatsink, without having to pull the motherboard out
of the case.
As long as the manufacturers use 1x2 cellphone
capacitors on the motherboard surface, you have to be a lot
more careful to not damage the surface mount components.
Your motherboard is an older generation and might have
0603 or 0402 caps and the older components are a bit
bigger and harder to damage without a bit more effort.
The MX-4 has the ability to spread easily. The temperature
different generally is only a couple degrees C between
competitors. But when a compound spreads (these are not
phase change compounds like the screened ones that come
with the heatsink are), you may have to redo it five years
from now. The temperature rise will tell you it is time to change it.
https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/3383/arctic_cooling_mx_4_thermal_compound/index.html
The problem with getting, say, a new heatsink for a build,
is you ruin the screened material while having trouble
fitting the screws. I've had trouble tightening the screws
on any of the last four (third-party) heatsinks, and none of
them had the screw threads "catch" on the first try. I was
a lather of sweat, lots of cursing, before the damn screws
were finally fitted. And that might have been the third time
I applied paste. This is why, if a screened material is placed
on the brand new heatsink, you hardly get to keep that compound
and have to use your tube of MX-4 instead. Fitting these things
is a nuisance.
That is not too heavy of a load.
No, you do a test fitting, applying your proposed dot pattern, and
checking the spread of the compound when the heatsink is pressed into it.
The size of the "contact circle" as the paste spreads, tells you
1) Whether the dot was the right size.
2) Whether it should have been a five dot pattern.
I'm making a note of that. I bought the PC in 2012, so there's a good
chance it's the CPU and not the PSU that causes the shutdown?
On Sun, 24 Nov 2024 16:03:35 -0500, Paul wrote:
That is not too heavy of a load.
If I get it to work again I'm probably going to use it to test some more Linux distributions. In the past I was that guy in the family people
went to 'to fix their computer'. Nowadays everybody has a smartphone and
they don't need me anymore. So maybe it's finally time I can ditch
Windows (W11) and switch to Linux.
I'm making a note of that. I bought the PC in 2012, so there's a good chance it's the CPU and not the PSU that causes the shutdown?
Unlikely.
If a heatsink falls off the CPU, the temperature shoots up to 200C,
the thermal protection does not engage immediately, that
could damage a CPU.
But really, with the heatsink fastened to the top, there is
thermal inertia (mass) and the temperature does not shoot up
quite as rapidly.
It's more likely a capacitor is leaking near the CPU socket,
if the board won't start.
But your case, your initial symptoms were an overloaded +5VSB.
I suggested measuring the current, as one way to ascertain
if there is a specific problem with the combination of
components. If something is shorted on the motherboard,
then the problem (box shuts off), may still be present
with your spare supply installed. You would put in the
spare supply. The LED would be lit for a minute or two,
then go off on its own. That could be an overload of +5VSB
for example.
Modern motherboards (yours is modern enough), have THERMTRIP.
If the CPU goes over 100C to 120C or so, THERMTRIP causes
PSON# to be deasserted and the PC fans stop spinning, and
3.3V/5V/12V are then powered off. You can have a shutdown
due to a thermal issue. The Asus LED remains lit when that happens
(a THERMTRIP).
But the thing is, you told us that the Asus LED, which
monitors +5VSB, that went OFF. That's an indication of
a power supply problem, not a THERMTRIP. THERMTRIP will
not turn that LED off.
The LED then, is key to determining whether you have
a "NEW" or "DIFFERENT" problem than the first one reported.
1) Swap out power supply. Put in known-good supply.
2) Record symptoms again. Does PC shut off as before ?
Does the Asus LED stay lit after the erroneous shutdown ?
Report back.
Well then it's removing the hard drives and dump the tower at a recycle point! If I'll bring it to a computer repair store they will charge me
an arm and a leg.
On Sat, 23 Nov 2024 14:28:54 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
Here's another guy gobbing
on way too much thermal paste: https://youtu.be/a0LlMDk_ljQ?t=12.
This guy is doing a lot better, I think: <https://youtu.be/eyNTXDoLyEU?feature=shared>
I don't think my MX-4 comes with a spatula, but I've cut 1/3 of a
plastic card which I'll be using.
On Mon, 25 Nov 2024 17:33:05 -0500, Paul wrote:
I'm making a note of that. I bought the PC in 2012, so there's a good
chance it's the CPU and not the PSU that causes the shutdown?
Unlikely.
)-:
If a heatsink falls off the CPU, the temperature shoots up to 200C,
the thermal protection does not engage immediately, that
could damage a CPU.
But really, with the heatsink fastened to the top, there is
thermal inertia (mass) and the temperature does not shoot up
quite as rapidly.
That's disappointing, sort of. But I do get to play with the paste.
It's more likely a capacitor is leaking near the CPU socket,
if the board won't start.
Well then it's removing the hard drives and dump the tower at a recycle point! If I'll bring it to a computer repair store they will charge me
an arm and a leg.
But your case, your initial symptoms were an overloaded +5VSB.
I suggested measuring the current, as one way to ascertain
if there is a specific problem with the combination of
components. If something is shorted on the motherboard,
then the problem (box shuts off), may still be present
with your spare supply installed. You would put in the
spare supply. The LED would be lit for a minute or two,
then go off on its own. That could be an overload of +5VSB
for example.
I'm learning new things here. It's my brother who knows electricity; I'm
100% sure he's got the equipment to measure.
I checked the PSU that I hopefully can use:
AOpen
Model no: Z400-08FC (400W peak)
Modern motherboards (yours is modern enough), have THERMTRIP.
If the CPU goes over 100C to 120C or so, THERMTRIP causes
PSON# to be deasserted and the PC fans stop spinning, and
3.3V/5V/12V are then powered off. You can have a shutdown
due to a thermal issue. The Asus LED remains lit when that happens
(a THERMTRIP).
But the thing is, you told us that the Asus LED, which
monitors +5VSB, that went OFF. That's an indication of
a power supply problem, not a THERMTRIP. THERMTRIP will
not turn that LED off.
OK, tnx. Does this also fit in the fact that I sometimes get to the BIOS (however briefly it is) ?
The LED then, is key to determining whether you have
a "NEW" or "DIFFERENT" problem than the first one reported.
1) Swap out power supply. Put in known-good supply.
2) Record symptoms again. Does PC shut off as before ?
Does the Asus LED stay lit after the erroneous shutdown ?
Report back.
Will do when you confirm I can use the other PSU. It's ATX, so I'm
guessing yes?
If you're removing the components from the case leaving just a metal
shell for the case, that can go in your recycle bin along with all the
cans for food (after rinsing them). Just remove any screws since those
are hardened, and not recyclable. If there are plastic covers, like
over the front, remove those to dump in the trash.
Graphic card: AMD-AP38G160U2K
Graphic card: AMD-AP38G160U2K <=============================== I can find no info for this.
I'm not getting a match on your video card.
Both search engines aren't matching on "AP38G160U2K"
The graphics function inside the 100W APU is HD6550D.
The thing is, your Peripheral supply 12V1 is only 10 amps,
and that's not going to be enough for much of a standalone
video card in an expansion slot.
The motherboard has four video connectors on the plate.
It has DVI-D, VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort. These run off the APU (CPU+GPU) chip and so to make the PC work, you don't even need a separate video card.
https://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/1721/asus-f1a75-v-pro-layout-6.jpg
Normally, if you had purchased a separate video card, it would
go in the long, dark-blue slot on the left of this picture.
https://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/1721/asus-f1a75-v-pro-layout-5.jpg
The thing is, the AOpen supply is unlikely to have a PCI Express 2x3 power connector on it. And a small video card might need a power source like that. That's why knowing some details about what you are actually
using for video is important.
Next to the long, dark-blue4 slot on the left of the picture,
is the round CMOS battery CR2032.
The motherboard will not "remember" the BIOS settings you enter, unless
the battery is functioning. The clock for example, will show the wrong time.
Using your debug technique of "swap it out", you do not need to
replace the CR2032 right away. However, if you fit the Z400 supply,
and the Asus LED lights up, but pressing the power button does not
work, then replacing the CR2032 would be the next step.
summary: Please examine the contents of the PC and confirm how your
video works. Is there an add-in card in one of the long slots ?
Or are you using a video connector in the group-of-four connectors
in the Legitreviews picture ? It you are using a separate video card,
there may not be enough power for it, or a connector to feed the
card power.
The "card" should be thin and pliable. The spatula is okay, but I
prefer a piece of a mylar sheet. The amount the YT author used is the
right amount. I apply until the layer is just translucent, and then
twist the HSF onto the CPU plate while pressing down. Then I remove to
gauge my result. I have to clean the HSF and CPU again, and do new
paste while making an adjustment if my prior effort deficient. Unless
you are building computers, and need to save on the paste, even a tiny
tube gives you 5 to 10 applications, or more, which is plenty to get it
right for just one setup. You're not gluing the HSF to the CPU, so you
can repeat until you get it right.
On Tue, 26 Nov 2024 21:04:00 -0500, Paul wrote:
Graphic card: AMD-AP38G160U2K <=============================== I can find no info for this.
That's my fault; these are the 2 DDR3 modules. This is the graphic card:
ASUS-EAH5450 SILENT/DI/ 512MB GDDR PCI EXPRESS
I'm not getting a match on your video card.
Both search engines aren't matching on "AP38G160U2K"
<https://www.startpage.com/do/dsearch?q=AP38G1608U2K&cat=web&language=english>
<https://tweakers.net/pricewatch/302780/amd-performance-ap38g1608u2k/specificaties/>
The graphics function inside the 100W APU is HD6550D.
I know. I should have used that one and the shop should have mentioned
it to me, but I got a PCIe ienstead.
The thing is, your Peripheral supply 12V1 is only 10 amps,
and that's not going to be enough for much of a standalone
video card in an expansion slot.
So better not try then.
The motherboard has four video connectors on the plate.
It has DVI-D, VGA, HDMI, DisplayPort. These run off the APU (CPU+GPU) chip >> and so to make the PC work, you don't even need a separate video card.
https://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/1721/asus-f1a75-v-pro-layout-6.jpg
See above. I got the card that I didn't really need. I don't play games
on PC or anything.
Normally, if you had purchased a separate video card, it would
go in the long, dark-blue slot on the left of this picture.
https://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/1721/asus-f1a75-v-pro-layout-5.jpg
That's where it is.
The thing is, the AOpen supply is unlikely to have a PCI Express 2x3 power >> connector on it. And a small video card might need a power source like that. >> That's why knowing some details about what you are actually
using for video is important.
My fault, I'm sorry. This shoul d be it:
ASUS-EAH5450 SILENT/DI/ 512MB GDDR PCI EXPRESS
Next to the long, dark-blue4 slot on the left of the picture,
is the round CMOS battery CR2032.
Yeah, I replaced that already and then did a BIOS reset by replacing the jumper (and then back).
The motherboard will not "remember" the BIOS settings you enter, unless
the battery is functioning. The clock for example, will show the wrong time.
These things I'm familiar with. Long ago I did a course 'computer
hardware'. Nothing fancy, just the basics, enough to build your own PC.
I can do that, although I did it only twice. It's just when things
(hardware) start breaking down I lack the knowledge.
Using your debug technique of "swap it out", you do not need to
replace the CR2032 right away. However, if you fit the Z400 supply,
and the Asus LED lights up, but pressing the power button does not
work, then replacing the CR2032 would be the next step.
I checked ealier: the PSU has an on/off button at the back. If I switch
it on the LED lights up, but only for a short time. After it switches
off nothing happens when I push the button of the tower.
summary: Please examine the contents of the PC and confirm how your
video works. Is there an add-in card in one of the long slots ?
Or are you using a video connector in the group-of-four connectors >> in the Legitreviews picture ? It you are using a separate video card,
there may not be enough power for it, or a connector to feed the
card power.
Again, tnx for taking your time. This is the graphic card (that I didn't really need :-) :
ASUS-EAH5450 SILENT/DI/ 512MB GDDR PCI EXPRESS
I checked all cables and they should be fine. What could be causing this
and how to solve?
And I'm saying /almost/, because the PSU only has one SATA cable and I
need at least 3 (SSD with W7, SATA hdd for data, SATA for
CD/DVD-(re)writer). So I'm looking to buy a (cheap) PSU that will
support at least 4 SATA (SATA6?) devices. I think non modular would be
the easiest?
s|b <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:
And I'm saying /almost/, because the PSU only has one SATA cable and I
need at least 3 (SSD with W7, SATA hdd for data, SATA for
CD/DVD-(re)writer). So I'm looking to buy a (cheap) PSU that will
support at least 4 SATA (SATA6?) devices. I think non modular would be
the easiest?
After Paul responds, you might get away with just using a Y-adapter
cable (aka power splitter): one sata power connector on one end, and
multiple sata power connectors on the other end. Typically it is a 1 to
2 arrangment, but you could use another Y-adapter to go 1 to 2, and then another 1 to 2, to give you 3 total. Presumably the sata power and sata
data pins are not all in 1 connector, but instead the sata power
(between PSU and drive) is a separate connector from the sata data
connector (between drive and mobo).
You might not get enough length to reach all drives with just a chained 1-to-2 splitter. There are sata power splitters that have 4 and even 5 connectors (not including the 1 that mates to the PSU sata power
connector) that can reach 24" in length. The placement of the
in-between connectors may not be optimal for all drives, but 4 of them
in a 5 connector cable should reach your drives.
https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=sata+power+splitter
You would have to check the power spec on the SATA output from the PSU
to ensure it will handle the load for all 4 of your drives. Not an
issue with SSDs, but the spinners (HDD and optic) have a startup surge current.
On Thu, 11/28/2024 12:07 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
s|b <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:
And I'm saying /almost/, because the PSU only has one SATA cable and I
need at least 3 (SSD with W7, SATA hdd for data, SATA for
CD/DVD-(re)writer). So I'm looking to buy a (cheap) PSU that will
support at least 4 SATA (SATA6?) devices. I think non modular would be
the easiest?
After Paul responds, you might get away with just using a Y-adapter
cable (aka power splitter): one sata power connector on one end, and
multiple sata power connectors on the other end. Typically it is a 1 to
2 arrangment, but you could use another Y-adapter to go 1 to 2, and then
another 1 to 2, to give you 3 total. Presumably the sata power and sata
data pins are not all in 1 connector, but instead the sata power
(between PSU and drive) is a separate connector from the sata data
connector (between drive and mobo).
You might not get enough length to reach all drives with just a chained
1-to-2 splitter. There are sata power splitters that have 4 and even 5
connectors (not including the 1 that mates to the PSU sata power
connector) that can reach 24" in length. The placement of the
in-between connectors may not be optimal for all drives, but 4 of them
in a 5 connector cable should reach your drives.
https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?d=sata+power+splitter
You would have to check the power spec on the SATA output from the PSU
to ensure it will handle the load for all 4 of your drives. Not an
issue with SSDs, but the spinners (HDD and optic) have a startup surge
current.
The SATA pins are rated for one ampere per contact, three contacts
in parallel, 3A max per rail. The SATA power design assumes power
is not being drawn from all three rails at the same time. Usually
only two of three rails have a power demand (not that it matters).
If used for splitting, you would check what kind of current the hard drive draws. The max current is at spinup, and can be 1.5-2A or so. Spinning
up two drives on a SATA to SATA splitter would be the limit that way.
This is why I don't recommend 1-to-3 or long chains of these for fanout.
SATA-power
/
SATA-power ----- 1-to-2 is safe for this
\
SATA-power This cabling has 3.3V, 5V, 12V on it
The power supply likely has Molex. Molex can take 6 to 10 amps,
depending on nearest-neighbors (a Molex 1x4 is a short connector
so not a thermal issue). The thicker the gauge of wire, the
closer to 10 amps you get. I generally assume 6 amps per wire in conversations here (as the wire gauges used may not be the best).
This kind of thing would work. The 3.3V rail which is missing
this way, is not usually a problem. Only the microSATA drives
potentially used 3.3V (there are no longer microSATA at retail).
----+
| SATA-power
| /
+--- Molex ------
| \
| SATA-power
|
| SATA-power
| /
+--- Molex ------
\
SATA-power This cabling has 5V, 12V (suited to most regular SATA)
If you use too many adapters sequentially, eventually
the 12V supply falls to 11V at the end of the cabling.
If you hear "clicking sounds" from your hard drive, this
is a sign the 12V supply is approaching 11V and the drive
will not reliably stay rotating that way. Shorten the
chain of cables, rearrange the chain, and the clicking
will stop. This has happened to be *twice* :-)
*******
3 Molex, 3 SATA, 2 PCIe $55 EVGA 600 BR 100-BR-0600-K1 600 W
https://www.newegg.com/evga-600-br-100-br-0600-k1-600-w-80-plus-bronze-certified/p/N82E16817438146
Similar Thermaltake, power rating not as nice, vent design not so good, 600 W Gold, $59
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-toughpower-gx2-gold-ps-tpd-0600nnfagu-2-600-w-80-plus-gold-certified/p/N82E16817153415
You'll have to check the customer reviews, and see if anyone has figured out the real manufacturer.
The lower-price items can be contract manufactured by a competitor.
There are some Silverstone supplies, but the prices are likely to be too high.
*******
Summary:
See if there are enough Molex connectors, to use two of these, to power four drives.
Don't buy this particular one, wires might not be long enough.
"Molex to two SATA, no metal clamp on these ones"
https://c1.neweggimages.com/productimage/nb1280/A20PS2307010DGQDZC4.jpg
Check the wire length on the items, to make sure the wires will
reach all the drives.
If you look in the mouth of the SATA, some 15 pin SATA on extenders, are missing
3 of the contacts, and only 12 contacts are loaded in the connector. I like to buy products that load *all* the contacts (15 of them), for equal insertion
force across the connector. The only way to look in the mouth of the connector,
is to shop retail and inspect the damn things :-)
The metal clamp is unnecessary, and there isn't always a place for the
clamp to clamp on to. The metal clamp is good on the seven pin data cable.
If it comes with a metal clamp, well OK, but the metal clamp is not
a necessity and none of my adapters have that clamp on them. The retention force on the 15 pin ensures it is not going to fall off.
Paul
Some PSUs still have cabling for floppy drives. There are adapters to
change to sata power. Are those safe to use for sata power?
After Paul responds, you might get away with just using a Y-adapter
cable (aka power splitter): one sata power connector on one end, and
multiple sata power connectors on the other end.
3 Molex, 3 SATA, 2 PCIe $55 EVGA 600 BR 100-BR-0600-K1 600 W
https://www.newegg.com/evga-600-br-100-br-0600-k1-600-w-80-plus-bronze-certified/p/N82E16817438146
Summary:
See if there are enough Molex connectors, to use two of these, to power four drives.
Don't buy this particular one, wires might not be long enough.
Would this one do? It's only 42 euro.
Thermaltake Tr2 S 500W
VanguardLH wrote:
Some PSUs still have cabling for floppy drives. There are adapters to
change to sata power. Are those safe to use for sata power?
There might be one of those floppy connectors on the supply.
Maybe a supply older than my collection, had one of those on the end of both looms.
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html
"The four pin floppy drive cable showed up
when PCs started including 3.5 inch floppy drives."
Socket housing Socket Maximum current per circuit
AMP 171822-4 AMP 170262-1 3 amps
That means you could draw 3 amps from +12V and 3 amps from +5V.
At a stretch, that's two hard drives off one "adapter",
assuming you can find a "floppy connector to two SATA 15p"
adapter. It is basically the same situation, as a SATA to two SATA
adapter.
On Fri, 29 Nov 2024 13:49:18 +0100, s|b wrote:
Would this one do? It's only 42 euro.
Thermaltake Tr2 S 500W
Ugh. I just saw it has 4 SATA connectors, but it's all on one cable.
Don't want that.
<https://www.thermaltake.com/tr2-s-500w-dc-to-dc-version.html>
I like to use adapters anyway :-)
It's the flexibility of the cable I like. The adapter uses
different wire than the "less flexible" PSU.
Some of the "beauty queens" who hide all the wiring inside the
computer case, and tape the wire to the metal with a ton of
pieces of tape (out of sight), I don't bother doing things
like that. The wire in mine just hangs down. I restrain wires
to prevent them from falling into fans. To me, a computer
case, it's an appliance, it's not a LED lit aquarium :-)
Technically, the PSU I'm currently using, has all the connectors
I need, but because the wire won't bend nicely for the work,
I am using two adapters, just to make plugging and unplugging
two drives easier (the boot drive, the drive I'm "working on"
as a technician machine). My optical drive is in an enclosure
and runs off a wall wart, and I can move that to any machine not
having an optical drive.
Each sub-ecosystem in Linux has its own personality.
As a newcomer, you would select one of the less aggressive groups
of people, select an OS where people actually help one another.
Sure, I recommend you test a few Linux OSes. Some have a deliberate
interest in your comfort with the project (Zorin Lite, the free version). Zorin is a commercial project, where other SKUs are the "fancy" version
of Zorin Lite. Zorin seeks to promote "direct Linux sales", not
a "support contract $150 per year please" model. Whereas Ubuntu,
the Canonical eventual goal is a support contract.
Debian 35000 packages, distro has the odd rough edge
/ \__
Ubuntu \ Uses Debian, better patch fit/finish on programs, "wants to be RedHat"
/ \ \
/ LinuxMint \ End user focus, will use Ubuntu until no longer tenable, all free distros (no Snaps)
| \
| LMDE Debian-based version of LinuxMint, for "life without Ubuntu"
|
Zorin End user focus, free and paid SKUs available (need paid SKUs to pay for bandwidth)
And this is how you have to know your neighborhood, to plan
for the future when the future arrives.
On Fri, 29 Nov 2024 15:01:02 -0500, Paul wrote:
Technically, the PSU I'm currently using, has all the connectors
I need, but because the wire won't bend nicely for the work,
I am using two adapters, just to make plugging and unplugging
two drives easier (the boot drive, the drive I'm "working on"
as a technician machine). My optical drive is in an enclosure
and runs off a wall wart, and I can move that to any machine not
having an optical drive.
I'm just going to go with the advice I got alternate.be. Told them what
the old PSU was and asked what to replace it with, considering I needed
at least 4 SATA connections. They advised this:
<https://www.alternate.be/Sharkoon/SHP-Bronze-500-W-voeding/html/product/1586770>
<https://assetscdn.loadbee.com/catalogue/zasu2wmd4974dnnm/www.sharkoon.com/Download//Cases_and_Power/PSU/SHP_Bronze/dmn_SHP-Bronze_04.pdf>
<https://en.sharkoon.com/product/SHPBRONZE#specs>
I just want ahead and ordered it (for about 45 euro).
FYI, Sharkoon doesn't manufacture anything. They stick their brand on products made by others. So does Corsair.
You already bought the Sharkoon PSU. Hopefully whomever is the actual OEM/mfr is a good one for whatever you get. Sometimes you can see who
is the OEM by looking inside the PSU case, but often the rebrander slaps their sticker atop the OEMs mark.
s|b <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:
On Fri, 29 Nov 2024 15:01:02 -0500, Paul wrote:
Technically, the PSU I'm currently using, has all the connectors
I need, but because the wire won't bend nicely for the work,
I am using two adapters, just to make plugging and unplugging
two drives easier (the boot drive, the drive I'm "working on"
as a technician machine). My optical drive is in an enclosure
and runs off a wall wart, and I can move that to any machine not
having an optical drive.
I'm just going to go with the advice I got alternate.be. Told them what
the old PSU was and asked what to replace it with, considering I needed
at least 4 SATA connections. They advised this:
<https://www.alternate.be/Sharkoon/SHP-Bronze-500-W-voeding/html/product/1586770>
<https://assetscdn.loadbee.com/catalogue/zasu2wmd4974dnnm/www.sharkoon.com/Download//Cases_and_Power/PSU/SHP_Bronze/dmn_SHP-Bronze_04.pdf>
<https://en.sharkoon.com/product/SHPBRONZE#specs>
I just want ahead and ordered it (for about 45 euro).
FYI, Sharkoon doesn't manufacture anything. They stick their brand on products made by others. So does Corsair. The quality of the rebranded product depends on the company putting their sticker on it as they
decide the level of quality with which they are to be equated. However,
even within a rebrander, quality can vary based on product or models. Sharkoon puts their sticker on computer cases, illumination kits,
keyboards, mice, CPU water coolers, mouse pads, keyboard wrist rests,
drive bay adapters, cables, headsets, case fans, chairs, desks,
backpacks, and, oh yes, power supplies.
Sharkoon rebrands PSUs from FSP and Enermax, but their QP and WPM series
are from Channel Well (same OEM for Corsair CX series), and their Rush
series are made by Enhance. Unless you open the PSU case, you really
don't know whose PSU you get from Sharkoon.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-oem-manufacturer,2913-9.html
A decade old article, but gives you an idea that brands are not always
the manufacturers (OEMs). This article is old, and purchasing agents at rebranders often change who are their OEMs.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-psus,4229.html
An example of someone reviewing PSUs to determine quality. In fact, I remember reading articles there where they test PSUs, like to determine
if they can actually meet their rated specs, under sustained loads at
specs rather then transient loads, what happens to the PSUs under
testing (some burn up at rated specs), ripple voltage, and more.
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/how-we-test-psu,4042.html https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supplies-101,4193.html
You already bought the Sharkoon PSU. Hopefully whomever is the actual OEM/mfr is a good one for whatever you get. Sometimes you can see who
is the OEM by looking inside the PSU case, but often the rebrander slaps their sticker atop the OEMs mark.
We don't know who makes the $20 units. Those have all the protection circuitry removed, and also the supply has no certifications (no TUV).
If such a supply has a 500W rating, then testing will show the
supply is actually a 350W unit. Attempts to draw 500W don't end well
in such a case. As a result, as long as you have some idea how
kit like that behaves, then go ahead, spend $20 on one :-)
On Sat, 30 Nov 2024 09:15:48 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
FYI, Sharkoon doesn't manufacture anything. They stick their brand on
products made by others. So does Corsair.
I've had good experiences with Corsair.
You already bought the Sharkoon PSU. Hopefully whomever is the actual
OEM/mfr is a good one for whatever you get. Sometimes you can see who
is the OEM by looking inside the PSU case, but often the rebrander slaps
their sticker atop the OEMs mark.
I don't want to be rude, but I just wanted a cheap PSU and I got one.
It's not much, but the 2 reviews it has are both 5 stars. Also, I'm in Europe, so there's a minimum warranty of 2 years.
On Sat, 30 Nov 2024 09:15:48 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
FYI, Sharkoon doesn't manufacture anything. They stick their brand on
products made by others. So does Corsair.
I've had good experiences with Corsair.
You already bought the Sharkoon PSU. Hopefully whomever is the actual
OEM/mfr is a good one for whatever you get. Sometimes you can see who
is the OEM by looking inside the PSU case, but often the rebrander slaps
their sticker atop the OEMs mark.
I don't want to be rude, but I just wanted a cheap PSU and I got one.
It's not much, but the 2 reviews it has are both 5 stars. Also, I'm in Europe, so there's a minimum warranty of 2 years.
s|b <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:
On Sat, 30 Nov 2024 09:15:48 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
FYI, Sharkoon doesn't manufacture anything. They stick their brand on
products made by others. So does Corsair.
I've had good experiences with Corsair.
You already bought the Sharkoon PSU. Hopefully whomever is the actual
OEM/mfr is a good one for whatever you get. Sometimes you can see who
is the OEM by looking inside the PSU case, but often the rebrander slaps >>> their sticker atop the OEMs mark.
I don't want to be rude, but I just wanted a cheap PSU and I got one.
It's not much, but the 2 reviews it has are both 5 stars. Also, I'm in
Europe, so there's a minimum warranty of 2 years.
Wow, all of 2 reviews. Were they by technically expertise sites
reviewing PSUs? Or just some users reporting in less than a month that
what they got worked at that time in a hardware configuration they never stated? An example of a more technical review is shown at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USXefeaz4vM
At full load rating, 12V was just under the ATX spec. At 110% load, the
PSU failed on 12V to meet the ATX spec. Unfortunately many PSUs are not overbuilt. This reviewer didn't do sustained load testing to ensure the
PSU didn't burn up.
At 45 euro, you really think the warranty means anything? It'll cost
you that, and probably a lot more, to ship the PSU back to Sparkoon,
plus the downtime.
80 Plus Bronze is not a great spec for a PSU. OEMs are allowed to skew
the testing by letting them hand pick which units to test, and the spec
omits several key tests.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRpqGF2poJM
The less efficient the PSU, the more it has to dissipate for the same
load as a more efficient PSU. Of course, with more efficiency comes a
higher price tag. A hot PSU won't last as long.
Along with lower efficiency, and not knowing who really made (the OEM)
of the Sharkoon-branded PSU, is why I suggested running at a max load of
70% of the ratings on the sticker on the PSU case.
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/what-80-plus-levels-mean,36721.html
Not saying what you bought is bad nor saying it is great. With a
"Sharkoon" sticker on the inside, you don't know which OEM is inside.
You may not need to dismantle the PSU to check the OEM. Use a
flashlight to peek through the fan and venting grills. I could've
missed it at their web site, but didn't find anything there noting the
terms of their warranties. I did find:
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51OXHqTrbBS.pdf
With Sharkoon promoting themselves as a gamer's brand, the PSU you got
might be okay, but 80 Plus Bronze is at the bottom of that spec.
At 45 euro, you really think the warranty means anything? It'll cost
you that, and probably a lot more, to ship the PSU back to Sparkoon,
plus the downtime.
80 Plus Bronze is not a great spec for a PSU. OEMs are allowed to skew
the testing by letting them hand pick which units to test, and the spec
omits several key tests.
With Sharkoon promoting themselves as a gamer's brand, the PSU you got
might be okay, but 80 Plus Bronze is at the bottom of that spec.
It's a good idea, to try to track down who actually made it.
I prefer that power supplies keep the fan running, at low RPM.
Some supply designs, the fan only comes on at 50C. And that's
not a particularly clever thing to do. The caps have their
best lives... at room temperature. Not at 50C.
It's unlikely to be a PowMax-style "500W" one, so you
don't need to worry about that. I don't think the $20 PSU
makers, know how to build a double-forward conversion one :-)
On Sun, 1 Dec 2024 08:26:39 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
At 45 euro, you really think the warranty means anything? It'll cost
you that, and probably a lot more, to ship the PSU back to Sparkoon,
plus the downtime.
It'll cost me nothing and I'll either get a replacement or my money
back. I won't have to send anything to Sparkoon; that's the (Belgian)
shop's responsibility. I don't know how it works where you're at, but
that is how it's done over here.
80 Plus Bronze is not a great spec for a PSU. OEMs are allowed to skew
the testing by letting them hand pick which units to test, and the spec
omits several key tests.
The original PSU is 80 Plus Bronze as well. It worked without a problem
for /years/. Yes, it broke down eventually, but not while I was using
it. I left it unused in a cold room for years.
With Sharkoon promoting themselves as a gamer's brand, the PSU you got
might be okay, but 80 Plus Bronze is at the bottom of that spec.
I asked for a cheap PSU and I got it. The main reason is that I want to
try out Linux and maybe rip some audio CD's since my main PC hasn't got
a CD/DVD writer, but the old one has. The main PC has the PSU at the
bottom and room for one writer at the top.
On Sat, 30 Nov 2024 17:40:45 -0500, Paul wrote:
I prefer that power supplies keep the fan running, at low RPM.
Some supply designs, the fan only comes on at 50C. And that's
not a particularly clever thing to do. The caps have their
best lives... at room temperature. Not at 50C.
Ah, I though every PSU runs all the time.
Ah, I though every PSU runs all the time.
They vary, like chili at different restaurants.
Different in the USA regarding contract law. The warranty is between
maker and consumer, not the shop. The shop may have its own return
policy, like give a month to return and refund a defective product, but
odd they should be honoring the warranty for 2 years. Nice shop there.
Doubt it was storage that broke the PSU, but critters could've gotten
inside. Mice chew on everything.
My point is the lower the efficiency, the more heat produced in the PSU
for the same load. Heat and electronics are enemies.
I've got a computer I haven't used for some time. I took out a hdd (D:)
and left it alone. I'm trying to get it to work again, but it just dies
on me.
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 16:19:46 +0100, s|b wrote:
I've got a computer I haven't used for some time. I took out a hdd (D:)
and left it alone. I'm trying to get it to work again, but it just dies
on me.
Today I installed the new PSU and everything is working fine, even the
SATA hdd that was giving me problems in my SATA HDD/SSD USB docking
station.
Not only that, I also learned some new things. So thanks again Paul and VanguardLH!
s|b <me@privacy.invalid> wrote:
On Thu, 21 Nov 2024 16:19:46 +0100, s|b wrote:
I've got a computer I haven't used for some time. I took out a hdd (D:)
and left it alone. I'm trying to get it to work again, but it just dies
on me.
Today I installed the new PSU and everything is working fine, even the
SATA hdd that was giving me problems in my SATA HDD/SSD USB docking
station.
Not only that, I also learned some new things. So thanks again Paul and
VanguardLH!
Since you replaced the CPU's thermal paste, you should probably employ a temperature monitor to watch the CPU temperature for a while.
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/how-to-check-cpu-temp-temperature
Mentions AIDA64, but I thought that got abandoned. Just looked at:
https://www.aida64.com/online-store
Okay, so it became payware, and why I stopped using it. It's free, but requires payment to "unlock the full potential". Maybe they crippled
the full version back when I was using it to then paywall the advanced features, and why I stopped using it. It was all free, and then
crippled so only some of it was free. There were other free choices.
CoreTemp shows you temps when you manually instigate investigation. It doesn't remain resident to issue alerts when temps get too high. Be
careful during installation, though, as I've read it defaults to
installing bloatware. Deselect some checkboxes during installation.
I did use Speedfan on an old build. Primarily because there was a fault
on the mobo that prevented the BIOS controlling speed fans, so I used Speedfan which worked, anyway. When booted, the CPU and case fans ran
at full speed which made more noise, but that lasted only until Speedfan
got loaded after Windows startup. It had temperature monitoring, too,
but I don't recall if it alerted you to overly high temps. It wasn't
needed in my next and current build (c.2019).
There is CPU-Z, but doesn't show temperatures. However, the same author
has HWMonitor (https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html). Because
I have CPU-Z installed, I also have HWMonitor installed. Takes a while
to load. It will report current temperatures, but not log a history of temperatures to see both present and past readings.
I've never used Open Hardware Monitor (https://openhardwaremonitor.org/)
but it looks similar to HWMonitor.
Pirform's Speccy also reports temps. Piriform was acquired by Avast who immediately turned Piriform's CCleaner into spamware, but firewall rules
can neuter it. Doesn't look like Avast spammified the other Piriform products.
After a new build or change, I'll monitor temps for awhile. So, having
to manually check periodically is okay instead of having something
always running that keeps a history of temperature readings (which I'd
still have to manually go check). Something that logs a history of temp readings along with alerting on overtemps would be preferable.
On Wed, 12/4/2024 3:14 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
After a new build or change, I'll monitor temps for awhile. So,
having to manually check periodically is okay instead of having
something always running that keeps a history of temperature
readings (which I'd still have to manually go check). Something
that logs a history of temp readings along with alerting on
overtemps would be preferable.
CPU-Z, you can go to the About tab, and there is an option to Save as
Text.
Open the file, which is MachineName.txt , and have a look.
This is not a "convenient method", but it is a method, and it
is useful when no other method has a driver for the Hardware Monitor
or whatever.
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:
On Wed, 12/4/2024 3:14 PM, VanguardLH wrote:
After a new build or change, I'll monitor temps for awhile. So,
having to manually check periodically is okay instead of having
something always running that keeps a history of temperature
readings (which I'd still have to manually go check). Something
that logs a history of temp readings along with alerting on
overtemps would be preferable.
CPU-Z, you can go to the About tab, and there is an option to Save as
Text.
Open the file, which is MachineName.txt , and have a look.
But *I* would have to keep repeatedly saving the current statistics, and
into different log files to merge together to get a history of
temperatures. No thanks. That's like me standing somewhere taking
repeated pics of some scene to create a slide show rather than plant a
camera on a tripod that is scheduled to automatically take pics of the
same spot. I'd rather have software do the chore than me doing the
mundane task.
I know I've seen a program that retained a history of temperatures. I
use HD Sentinel which includes monitoring temps of drives, and it has a history. But not of the CPU, GPU, or memory modules.
This is not a "convenient method", but it is a method, and it
is useful when no other method has a driver for the Hardware Monitor
or whatever.
Pretty much dictates that after booting into the OS that I would be preoccupied with repeatedly saving to a log what are the current
readings.
I mentioned using SpeedFan (https://www.almico.com/speedfan.php)
primarily to control CPU and case fan speeds (on a defective mobo).
SpeedFan does have an option to log history into a file. It's been 5
years, or more, since I last used SpeedFan, so I forgot it had the
logging feature. Main window -> Configure -> Log tab, select Enabled checkbox, Temperatures tab, select the temp you want to log, and select
the Logged checkbox. I don't have it installed to check if that navpath
is still correct. As I recall, I remember using temp and fan speed
history in Speedfan shown as a chart to determine what happened when I
played a game, or for some other event in which I was curious how it
might affect temps and speeds, and how fast those would accelerate or decelerate after the event.
From a 7-year old forum post, someone said Open Hardware Monitor (https://openhardwaremonitor.org/) has Options -> Log Sensors that will automatically save all sensor data as a function of time at an interval
you select into a dated file into the same folder as where is the
executable for the program. Could run afoul of Windows 7+ protection
keeping programs and program data in separate paths, so you might have
to run OHM in a folder other than under C:\Program Files [(x86)].
So, some temp monitors can log a history of temps. I'm sure there are
more than those I mentioned.
CoreTemp shows you temps when you manually instigate investigation. It doesn't remain resident to issue alerts when temps get too high. Be
careful during installation, though, as I've read it defaults to
installing bloatware. Deselect some checkboxes during installation.
(BIOS said something around 26øC.)
On Fri, 06 Dec 2024 17:43:30 +0100, s|b wrote:
(BIOS said something around 26øC.)
Rebooted and checked BIOS again: 33øC.
On Wed, 4 Dec 2024 14:14:07 -0600, VanguardLH wrote:
CoreTemp shows you temps when you manually instigate investigation. It
doesn't remain resident to issue alerts when temps get too high. Be
careful during installation, though, as I've read it defaults to
installing bloatware. Deselect some checkboxes during installation.
That can't be right?
<https://ibb.co/mvRw8Yn>
(BIOS said something around 26øC.)
If you were to run Prime95 for a while, the CPU would go way up in temp. you'll probably run up closer to 80C at which point the CPU may throttle itself (gets slower) to protect itself.
Your mobo has an FM1 socket for the CPU. Don't know which AMD CPU is in
your socket, but likely it has an operating temperature range up to 95C.
The developer claims to have made a fix for the 4C thing in the year 2012.
https://www.alcpu.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2297
In this CPU-Z for your processor, you can see that at idle,
and with a decent heatsink, the CPU can pull a low temperature
reading (29.3C) at idle.
http://valid.x86.fr/p8hcd8
Like Van says, a load test will indicate how good your
cooling is. Even CPU-Z, in the Bench tab, it has a
Stress Test button, for leaving the benchmark running
and warming up the CPU. That raises my CPU to 60C die
temperature, and that is sufficiently below 90C for
me to be happy about it.
VanguardLH wrote:
If you were to run Prime95 for a while, the CPU would go way up in
temp. you'll probably run up closer to 80C at which point the CPU
may throttle itself (gets slower) to protect itself.
I ran Prime95 for an hour. Highest temperature (according to
CoreTemp) was 48øC.
Your mobo has an FM1 socket for the CPU. Don't know which AMD CPU is
in your socket, but likely it has an operating temperature range up
to 95C.
Paul's got a better memory than you; I mentioned the CPU. ;-)
AMD A8-3870 APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics
With a temp monitor with threshold alerts and a history log, I'd set the alert to 60C. Then, if alerted, check the log to see how often you came close or exceeded that temperature. 60C still has wiggle room.
VanguardLH wrote:
With a temp monitor with threshold alerts and a history log, I'd set the
alert to 60C. Then, if alerted, check the log to see how often you came
close or exceeded that temperature. 60C still has wiggle room.
In the BIOS? I just installed RealVNC and threw the monitor in another
room. \-:
In the BIOS? I just installed RealVNC and threw the monitor in another room. \-:
No, a temp monitor program that loads on Windows startup, or on Windows account login (i.e., a startup program).
For VNC to work, you need a
VNC server running on the remote host, and that loads on Windows startup
and Windows account login. Then you could use a VNC client on the local
host to look at a temp monitor program that also loads on Windows login
on the remote host to use a VNC client on the local host to check the
temp on the remote host.
RealVNC viewer (client) is free. RealVNC server is not.
I found folks mention the free plan got discontinued, like:
https://www.reddit.com/r/selfhosted/comments/1csq8bm/realvnc_is_sunsetting_their_free_plan_what/
If your local and remote host are both in-network in your home, I don't
much see the point of wasting time setting up VNC server and client.
Just walk over to the other host.
| Sysop: | Tetrazocine |
|---|---|
| Location: | Melbourne, VIC, Australia |
| Users: | 9 |
| Nodes: | 8 (0 / 8) |
| Uptime: | 119:47:22 |
| Calls: | 161 |
| Files: | 21,502 |
| Messages: | 78,875 |
