On Thu, 11/6/2025 9:11 PM, Boris wrote:
Looks like my wife's Dell laptop (Inspiron 13-7353, purchased June 7,
2016) running Windows 10 Home, has finally died. It won't start.
Nothing, completely dead. When plugged in, the charging light comes
on, but that's all it does. No display, no sounds.
On July 9, 2025, I wrote: "No Boot Device Found". I fixed the BCD
Template, and the machine was up again.
On September 5, I wrote: "Volume Shadow Copy Issue When Running Backup
Software". Neither Macrium nor Acronis would recognize the SSD.
There have been other notices, such as when trying to open a jpg or
pdf, I get an error message that the application has not been
'provisioned'. I've always been able to then set the application as
the default, and move on, or use an other application to open the file,
but the error then moves to the recently set default application(s).
It goes back and forth.
None the less, the machine was working, even with all the above issues,
but it finally died today. I'm trying to get into the SSD using an
adapter, and connecting to my desktop via USB. I've done this many
times with other HDDs/SSDs.
But when I do this with this particular drive, I get this message:
https://postimg.cc/HJH6dKb9
My wife's Windows 10 Home account is a local account, and never has had
a Microsoft account, like me. And, we have no user name or password to
log on to our local accounts. (I do have a Netgear router that does
have a User and Password assigned, but that's only to look at network
stats/settings/etc.)
Do you know why I'm being asked for Network Credentials?
Thanks.
Windows Security
Enter network credentials
Enter your credentials to connect to: LAPTOP
User name
Password
Remember my credentials
The username or password is incorrect.
OK Cancel | _________________________________________|
v This PC
OS (C:)
songs (\\readyshare) (O:)
Qdrv (\\readyshare) (Q:)
v Network
LAPTOP <=== This entry highlighted in File Explorer in the picture
************************************************************************
If you go into Disk Management, does the drive appear there at all ?
Perhaps there is executable content on the drive that somehow
is getting triggered ("phishing"). It is almost like it is "walking off
the end" of the This PC entry and selecting Networking, but if it did
that, selecting and highlighting LAPTOP would be a separate step and
Explorer could not do that itself.
Since your picture shows the word "Laptop" in Networking is
highlighted, it almost looks like an attempt to connect to
something network related.
It smells of "phishing" and I would use a different OS for the next boot cycle of the technician machine. Unplug the USB connector from the
technician machine, boot with a different OS (read only DVD), and
start your examination there.
It could be a Dell-ism for FDE (Full Disk Encryption) of some sort,
but a search in Google, Google is basically ignoring my search terms
pretty well altogether. This means there isn't really a strong
signal present for such a scenario.
*************************************************************************
**
CoPilot Question
A user connects a Win10 SATA SSD from a Dell Inspiron laptop,
to a technician machine with a USB to SATA adapter.
The response of the technician machine in File Explorer,
is to present an "Enter network credentials" dialog box
and (apparently) jump to the Networking section of
the File Explorer sidebar.
What content on the disk drive, would account for an
attempt to access a network entry like that ?
CoPilot Answer
Look for `.lnk` files pointing to `\\` paths. <=== This sentence stood
out.
Rest of response was
silly.
Note that there was a very recent article, about an exploit for
Windows, which uses .lnk files in email attachments. This would
seem to have nothing to do particularly, with the thing you are
seeing. I still don't know how the .lnk file gets loaded unless
some other executable content (autorun.inf) is doing it.
Summary: While it could be nothing, and merely "chance" at work,
I would definitely be working on the disk from Linux now, even
though some of my favorite tools are on Windows. It's a security
issue now.
Paul
On 2025-11-07 02:11, Boris wrote:
I'm trying to get into the SSD using an adapter, and
connecting to my desktop via USB. I've done this many times with
other HDDs/SSDs.
But when I do this with this particular drive, I get this message:
https://postimg.cc/HJH6dKb9
On 2025-11-07 14:47, Paul wrote:
v Network
> LAPTOP <=== This entry highlighted in File Explorer in the
> picture
************************************************************************
If you go into Disk Management, does the drive appear there at all ?
If his own description is to be believed, and we have nothing else to go
on to say otherwise, it Looks to me like he's plugged the drive in the
USB adaptor into one machine ('LAPTOP', I'm assuming 'LAPTOP' is NOT his wife's dead machine
trying to connect to it over the network from another ('desktop'). This
is possible but ridiculously involved for what he wants to do, for a
start he'd have specifically to share the drive on the laptop before he could see it from the desktop. Why not just work directly from the
laptop
would be much simpler.
or just plug the USB adaptor directly into the desktop?
That's what I've done. I think you may not have understood my post.
On 2025/11/7 16:14:20, Graham J wrote:
Boris wrote:, but
[snip]
None the less, the machine was working, even with all the above issues
, andit finally died today. I'm trying to get into the SSD using an adapter
rconnecting to my desktop via USB. I've done this many times with othe
HDDs/SSDs.
Normally, connecting via USB shows the drive as a device letter: E: or
F: or the like. So it appears under the "Computer" tree, not the
"Network" tree.
Just to clarify: Do you (Boris) mean you have removed the SSD from the laptop, and are attempting to access the SSD (presumably a SATA
interface) via a USB-to-SATA adapter?
If that _is_ the situation, what does the laptop do if you try to start
it, having removed the SSD?
boot device" message or similar. (I'd also expect it to be bootable via
a bootable CD, DVD, or USB stick even if the SSD hasn't been removed,
though it might be necessary to change boot order by some means - often holding down a key while powering up [Del or one of the F keys are
popular], though this ideapad has a special hole that can be poked to
bring up a menu.)
[]
If you _are_ trying to access the SSD via an adapter, I'd agree with
Graham that it would normally show as a drive letter - or more than one
if it had more than one partition.
Yes, it should appear under This PC. It always has when I've connected it via SATA/USB adapter to the my Win11 desktop. I connected another HDD via SATA/USB adapter, and it also appeared under the Network, and not This PC. Furthermore, I connected both of these drives to a Win7 desktop, and they both appeared under Network and showed up under Network, with the name LAPTOP. I've never seen this.
Boris wrote:
[snip]
or just plug the USB adaptor directly into the desktop?
That's what I've done. I think you may not have understood my post.
Open the desktop PC, identify the SATA connector(s) on the motherboard,
and connect the SSD directly to one of these using a SATA cable. If
there are no spare connectors you may have to disconnect an existing
CD/DVD player. This should ensure that the SSD (if it is in fact
working at all) is seen as a drive under "This PC".
On Sun, 11/9/2025 4:30 PM, Boris wrote:
Yes, it should appear under This PC. It always has when I've connected
it via SATA/USB adapter to the my Win11 desktop. I connected another
HDD via SATA/USB adapter, and it also appeared under the Network, and
not This PC. Furthermore, I connected both of these drives to a Win7
desktop, and they both appeared under Network and showed up under
Network, with the name LAPTOP. I've never seen this.
OK, a search this time, finds a breadcrumb.
https://superuser.com/questions/1386324/windows-10-windows-explorer-shows -a-working-usb-drive-as-a-network-drive
net use /persistent:no
Apparently, you had your wifes drive mapped as a persistent volume.
And the OS must know some identifier from the remote session,
that it is able to sense while connected locally, and this is
causing a network-type response.
The command there, disables all persistent mounts, so it is a
bit of a hammer and not all that precise.
Issue that command in an administrative window, shut down the machine, disconnect the USB adapter, boot up, plug in the adapter and see if
this time, it responds in Disk Management instead.
Paul
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10ele3n$210tj$1@dont-
email.me:
Just to clarify: Do you (Boris) mean you have removed the SSD from the
laptop, and are attempting to access the SSD (presumably a SATA
interface) via a USB-to-SATA adapter?
Yes, exactly.
t
If that _is_ the situation, what does the laptop do if you try to star
it, having removed the SSD?
It does absolutely nothing. Nothing lights up. I replaced the CR 2032
cell, but still nothing. I suspect a dead batery.
I would expect _some_thing - such as a "noa
boot device" message or similar. (I'd also expect it to be bootable vi
na bootable CD, DVD, or USB stick even if the SSD hasn't been removed,
though it might be necessary to change boot order by some means - ofte
holding down a key while powering up [Del or one of the F keys are
popular], though this ideapad has a special hole that can be poked to
bring up a menu.)
On 2025/11/9 22:2:5, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10ele3n$210tj$1@dont-
email.me:
[]
And you've now (you say in another post) been able to see all of it, soJust to clarify: Do you (Boris) mean you have removed the SSD from the
laptop, and are attempting to access the SSD (presumably a SATA
interface) via a USB-to-SATA adapter?
Yes, exactly.
we know the SSD is OK, or at least readable.
If that _is_ the situation, what does the laptop do if you try to start
it, having removed the SSD?
It does absolutely nothing. Nothing lights up. I replaced the CR 2032
Hmm. So it wasn't the SSD killing it (being able to access the SSD
suggests it wasn't the problem anyway).
cell, but still nothing. I suspect a dead batery.
Can you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
power supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but maybe
others here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
On Sun, 11/9/2025 4:30 PM, Boris wrote:
Yes, it should appear under This PC. It always has when I've connected
it via SATA/USB adapter to the my Win11 desktop. I connected another
HDD via SATA/USB adapter, and it also appeared under the Network, and
not This PC. Furthermore, I connected both of these drives to a Win7
desktop, and they both appeared under Network and showed up under
Network, with the name LAPTOP. I've never seen this.
OK, a search this time, finds a breadcrumb.
https://superuser.com/questions/1386324/windows-10-windows-explorer-shows -a-working-usb-drive-as-a-network-drive
net use /persistent:no
Apparently, you had your wifes drive mapped as a persistent volume.
And the OS must know some identifier from the remote session,
that it is able to sense while connected locally, and this is
causing a network-type response.
The command there, disables all persistent mounts, so it is a
bit of a hammer and not all that precise.
Issue that command in an administrative window, shut down the machine, disconnect the USB adapter, boot up, plug in the adapter and see if
this time, it responds in Disk Management instead.
Paul
On Sun, 11/9/2025 8:18 PM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:
On 2025/11/9 22:2:5, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in
news:10ele3n$210tj$1@dont- email.me:
[]
And you've now (you say in another post) been able to see all of it, soJust to clarify: Do you (Boris) mean you have removed the SSD from
the laptop, and are attempting to access the SSD (presumably a SATA
interface) via a USB-to-SATA adapter?
Yes, exactly.
we know the SSD is OK, or at least readable.
If that _is_ the situation, what does the laptop do if you try to
start it, having removed the SSD?
It does absolutely nothing. Nothing lights up. I replaced the CR
2032
Hmm. So it wasn't the SSD killing it (being able to access the SSD
suggests it wasn't the problem anyway).
cell, but still nothing. I suspect a dead batery.
Can you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
power supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but maybe
others here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
Inspiron 13 7353 11.1 Volt Li-Polymer Laptop Battery (3500mAh / 39Wh)
It's one of those rectangular flat batteries that screws into the
chassis with one of more mounting screws. It isn't the old style with
the big connector, that hinges out when you "eject" it. It will require
some work to remove it. It's not easy-peasy. Progress.
A visual examination might find it is swelled. Don't really know for
sure what to expect.
Some of those rectangular ones have a pigtail, but the one site I was
looking at, I think they were hiding the wire.
Paul
On 07/11/2025 02:11, Boris wrote:
Do you know why I'm being asked for Network Credentials?
Did you accidentally encrypt the disk? You said you were having problems with it, but then it started working again. It's possible that this is because you did something to the disk that caused it to be encrypted.results.
People do all sorts of things without knowing what they are doing. I
suggest you do the following:
1) Open the Start Menu, type Control Panel, and select it from the
2) Go to System and Security or search for "BitLocker" in the Control
Panel search bar.
3) Click on BitLocker Drive Encryption.
4) Find the drive you want to decrypt/check (it will say "BitLocker On").
5) Click Turn off BitLocker next to the drive.
6) You may be prompted to enter your administrator password to confirm.
7) The drive will begin decrypting. Do not turn off your PC until this process is complete.
By the way this has nothing to do with Network so don't confuse the
matter. Your image is not clear either. The password is to connect to
the hard disk.
Per your advice in your post of Friday 10/07, I connected the SSD directly
to the motherboard, and lo and behold, the entire SSD was visible, and I could navigate all through it. Thanks.
I will set up the new laptop with a local Sue account only, if Microsoft
has not yet made that impossible.
Windows Elf <windows.elf@outlook.com.invalid> wrote in news:10erne8$3al8s$1 @paganini.bofh.team:
On 07/11/2025 02:11, Boris wrote:results.
Do you know why I'm being asked for Network Credentials?
Did you accidentally encrypt the disk? You said you were having problems
with it, but then it started working again. It's possible that this is
because you did something to the disk that caused it to be encrypted.
People do all sorts of things without knowing what they are doing. I
suggest you do the following:
1) Open the Start Menu, type Control Panel, and select it from the
2) Go to System and Security or search for "BitLocker" in the Control
Panel search bar.
3) Click on BitLocker Drive Encryption.
4) Find the drive you want to decrypt/check (it will say "BitLocker On").
5) Click Turn off BitLocker next to the drive.
6) You may be prompted to enter your administrator password to confirm.
7) The drive will begin decrypting. Do not turn off your PC until this
process is complete.
By the way this has nothing to do with Network so don't confuse the
matter. Your image is not clear either. The password is to connect to
the hard disk.
I don't have BitLocker. My understanding is that it's only available in
Pro editions. I have Home.
Can you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
power supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but maybe
others here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
Boris wrote on 11/9/2025 11:42 PM:[...]
Windows Elf <windows.elf@outlook.com.invalid> wrote in news:10erne8$3al8s$1 @paganini.bofh.team:
On 07/11/2025 02:11, Boris wrote:
Do you know why I'm being asked for Network Credentials?
Did you accidentally encrypt the disk? ...
I don't have BitLocker. My understanding is that it's only available in Pro editions. I have Home.
Home does not include/support Bitlocker full program, yet Home does support/provide Device Encryption.
- the latter, Device Encryption, is just a stripped down simple(user friendly) method of BitLocker for Home. Does not have all the user
controls and settings(e.g. no encrypting individual drives).
MSFT Account logon => when Device Encryption is Enabled, functions automatically and recovery key backed up to MSFT account.
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote in news:10erlfn$3nppm$1@dont-email.me:
On Sun, 11/9/2025 8:18 PM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:
eCan you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
power supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but mayb
eothers here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
Inspiron 13 7353 11.1 Volt Li-Polymer Laptop Battery (3500mAh / 39Wh)
It's one of those rectangular flat batteries that screws into the
chassis with one of more mounting screws. It isn't the old style with
the big connector, that hinges out when you "eject" it. It will requir
some work to remove it. It's not easy-peasy. Progress.
Visual inspection shows no bulging. I'm going to order a new one to see
if I can get this Inspiron 13 7353 up and running. It will be a spare machine.
I don't have BitLocker. My understanding is that it's only available in
Pro editions. I have Home.
Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault: _will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which would
be bad design but possible).
...w¤?ñ?¤ <winstonmvp@gmail.com> wrote:
Boris wrote on 11/9/2025 11:42 PM:[...]
Windows Elf <windows.elf@outlook.com.invalid> wrote in news:10erne8$3al8s$1 >>> @paganini.bofh.team:
On 07/11/2025 02:11, Boris wrote:
Do you know why I'm being asked for Network Credentials?
Did you accidentally encrypt the disk? ...
I don't have BitLocker. My understanding is that it's only available in >>> Pro editions. I have Home.Home does not include/support Bitlocker full program, yet Home does
support/provide Device Encryption.
- the latter, Device Encryption, is just a stripped down simple(user
friendly) method of BitLocker for Home. Does not have all the user
controls and settings(e.g. no encrypting individual drives).
MSFT Account logon => when Device Encryption is Enabled, functions
automatically and recovery key backed up to MSFT account.
But this is about Windows *10* Home. That didn't have Device
Encryption, did it? (Yes, Boris desktop has Windows 11, but this is
about the SSD which came from his wife's Windows 10 laptop.)
Frank Slootweg wrote on 11/10/2025 4:12 AM:[...]
...w??? <winstonmvp@gmail.com> wrote:
Home does not include/support Bitlocker full program, yet Home does
support/provide Device Encryption.
- the latter, Device Encryption, is just a stripped down simple(user
friendly) method of BitLocker for Home. Does not have all the user
controls and settings(e.g. no encrypting individual drives).
MSFT Account logon => when Device Encryption is Enabled, functions
automatically and recovery key backed up to MSFT account.
But this is about Windows *10* Home. That didn't have Device
Encryption, did it? (Yes, Boris desktop has Windows 11, but this is
about the SSD which came from his wife's Windows 10 laptop.)
Applies to Windows 10 Home and Windows 11 Home.
Not all 'Home' devices may have the option. A few reasons:
TPM not present, not enabled in UEFI/BIOS
WinRE not configured
On 2025/11/10 6:34:53, Boris wrote:
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote in news:10erlfn$3nppm$1@dont-email.me:
On Sun, 11/9/2025 8:18 PM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:
[]
Can you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
epower supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but mayb
eothers here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
Inspiron 13 7353 11.1 Volt Li-Polymer Laptop Battery (3500mAh / 39Wh)
It's one of those rectangular flat batteries that screws into the
chassis with one of more mounting screws. It isn't the old style with
the big connector, that hinges out when you "eject" it. It will requir
some work to remove it. It's not easy-peasy. Progress.
To me, "old style" is the sort that sits between the display hinges, and
can be removed without opening the laptop!
[]
Visual inspection shows no bulging. I'm going to order a new one to see
if I can get this Inspiron 13 7353 up and running. It will be a spare
machine.
[]
Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault: _will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which would
be bad design but possible).
On 2025/11/10 6:34:53, Boris wrote:
Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote in news:10erlfn$3nppm$1@dont-email.me:
On Sun, 11/9/2025 8:18 PM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:
[]
Can you remove the battery, and try booting it with just the external
epower supply connected? I don't _think_ that should harm it, but mayb
eothers here can say for sure. If you do try this, leave the SSD
disconnected ...
Inspiron 13 7353 11.1 Volt Li-Polymer Laptop Battery (3500mAh / 39Wh)
It's one of those rectangular flat batteries that screws into the
chassis with one of more mounting screws. It isn't the old style with
the big connector, that hinges out when you "eject" it. It will requir
some work to remove it. It's not easy-peasy. Progress.
To me, "old style" is the sort that sits between the display hinges, and
can be removed without opening the laptop!
[]
Visual inspection shows no bulging. I'm going to order a new one to see
if I can get this Inspiron 13 7353 up and running. It will be a spare
machine.
[]
Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault: _will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which would
be bad design but possible).
Graham J <nobody@nowhere.co.uk> wrote in news:10er2k3$3j781$1@dont-
email.me:
Boris wrote:
[snip]
or just plug the USB adaptor directly into the desktop?
That's what I've done. I think you may not have understood my post.
Open the desktop PC, identify the SATA connector(s) on the motherboard,
and connect the SSD directly to one of these using a SATA cable. If
there are no spare connectors you may have to disconnect an existing
CD/DVD player. This should ensure that the SSD (if it is in fact
working at all) is seen as a drive under "This PC".
Per your advice in your post of Friday 10/07, I connected the SSD
directly to the motherboard, and lo and behold, the entire SSD was
visible, and I could navigate all through it. Thanks.
I purchased a Dell 14" Windows 11 Home laptop (16 GB memory, 512 GB
SSD).
My plan is to copy all needed data from the old SSD to this new laptop,
then put the old SSD back into the old laptop, and buy a new battery to
see if the old laptop will turn on and boot. If so, I'd like to do a
clean (re)install of Windows 10 Home, and have this laptop as a backup.
I will set up the new laptop with a local Sue account only, if Microsoft
has not yet made that impossible.
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10esimd$3usco$1@dont-
email.me:
:Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault
d_will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which woul
be bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
On 2025/11/12 0:6:11, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10esimd$3usco$1@dont-
email.me:
[]
Hmm. Suggests it's not the battery at fault, so I wouldn't waste yourBefore Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault:
_will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which would
be bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
money ordering a "new" one.
A thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
of problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said a light comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
On Wed, 11/12/2025 8:40 AM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:t-
On 2025/11/12 0:6:11, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10esimd$3usco$1@don
lt:email.me:
[]
Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fau
uld_will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which wo
aHmm. Suggests it's not the battery at fault, so I wouldn't waste yourbe bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
money ordering a "new" one.
A thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
of problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said
light comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
A computer can't start, if it can't come out of RESET.
RESET stays asserted as long as Power_Good isn't there.
Power_Good is the logical-AND of all power converter
goodnesses.
Just to point out, a number of things could cause
a failure to jump to the "first instruction".
*******
You can use a negative test result as a positive test result.
If you pull the RAM out of a desktop, it beeps the piezo
in the No RAM Detected pattern. If you hear this, it
verifies a bit of basic functionality, that you have come
out of RESET and so on.
Some amount of BIOS code is register
based, and does not need scratch RAM storage to run. Later,
after the register-based code has configured the RAM
controller and the RAM starts, the code is in a better position
to switch to conventional coding techniques.
On a laptop, that's about the most practical "beep code" to trigger.
On a soldered-down-RAM laptop, you have limited choices for
that sort of test.
I'm pretty sure Boris is stuck in RESET, or the power management
has had a major failure of some sort. You could do the RAM test
for fun though, as long as the cover comes off easily to do it.
Some UEFI will fail, based on what they read off the hard drive. Disconnecting the storage may allow something to start, ifIf the main processor won't start, would you expect the graphics "card"
that was the root cause of the failure. I have one 4TB Seagate
drive here, if an OS is loaded on the disk, the Test Machine hangs.
Only if the Seagate drive has a 4TB data partition on it, does
that disk "allow" the machine to start. I have to use Hot Plug
with that drive, to get past a boot and do maintenance on the drive.
As you can imagine, this is very annoying, I checked and that
version of the drive has no corresponding flash update for the
drive firmware. (Such drive firmware is stored on the platter, as
it's cheaper to do it that way.)
Paul
Using the instructions below, with one modification found on reddit, I was able to set up a local (non-Microsoft) account:
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/install-windows-11-without-microsoft-ac count
On Wed, 11/12/2025 8:40 AM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:
On 2025/11/12 0:6:11, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in
news:10esimd$3usco$1@dont- email.me:
[]
Hmm. Suggests it's not the battery at fault, so I wouldn't waste yourBefore Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at
fault: _will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect
the external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to
boot (well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or
similar)? Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the
possibility that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage
down (which would be bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
money ordering a "new" one.
A thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
of problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said
a light comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
A computer can't start, if it can't come out of RESET.
RESET stays asserted as long as Power_Good isn't there.
Power_Good is the logical-AND of all power converter
goodnesses.
Just to point out, a number of things could cause
a failure to jump to the "first instruction".
*******
You can use a negative test result as a positive test result.
If you pull the RAM out of a desktop, it beeps the piezo
in the No RAM Detected pattern. If you hear this, it
verifies a bit of basic functionality, that you have come
out of RESET and so on.
Some amount of BIOS code is register
based, and does not need scratch RAM storage to run. Later,
after the register-based code has configured the RAM
controller and the RAM starts, the code is in a better position
to switch to conventional coding techniques.
On a laptop, that's about the most practical "beep code" to trigger.
On a soldered-down-RAM laptop, you have limited choices for
that sort of test.
I'm pretty sure Boris is stuck in RESET, or the power management
has had a major failure of some sort. You could do the RAM test
for fun though, as long as the cover comes off easily to do it.
Some UEFI will fail, based on what they read off the hard drive. Disconnecting the storage may allow something to start, if
that was the root cause of the failure. I have one 4TB Seagate
drive here, if an OS is loaded on the disk, the Test Machine hangs.
Only if the Seagate drive has a 4TB data partition on it, does
that disk "allow" the machine to start. I have to use Hot Plug
with that drive, to get past a boot and do maintenance on the drive.
As you can imagine, this is very annoying, I checked and that
version of the drive has no corresponding flash update for the
drive firmware. (Such drive firmware is stored on the platter, as
it's cheaper to do it that way.)
Paul
On 2025/11/12 0:6:11, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10esimd$3usco$1@dont-
email.me:
[]
:Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fault
d_will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
that it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which woul
Hmm. Suggests it's not the battery at fault, so I wouldn't waste yourbe bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
money ordering a "new" one.
A thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
of problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said a light comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
Boris wrote on 11/11/2025 9:15 PM:
Using the instructions below, with one modification found on reddit, I
was able to set up a local (non-Microsoft) account:
https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/install-windows-11-without-microsoft
-ac count
<https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/install-windows-11-without-microsoft -account>
Broken link fixed.
On 2025/11/12 16:45:49, Paul wrote:
On Wed, 11/12/2025 8:40 AM, J. P. Gilliver wrote:t-
On 2025/11/12 0:6:11, Boris wrote:
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10esimd$3usco$1@don
lt:email.me:
[]
Before Boris wastes his money in case it _wasn't_ the battery at fau
_will_ it harm the laptop to remove the battery, then connect the
external PSU (what some people call the "charger") and try to boot
(well, power up, to see if it shows "no boot device" or similar)?
Normally I'd expect that to be safe, but I entertain the possibility
uldthat it might rely on the battery to keep the voltage down (which wo
Hmm. Suggests it's not the battery at fault, so I wouldn't waste yourbe bad design but possible).
I tried that, but no luck. Nothing happened.
money ordering a "new" one.
A thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
aof problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said
light comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
A computer can't start, if it can't come out of RESET.
RESET stays asserted as long as Power_Good isn't there.
Power_Good is the logical-AND of all power converter
goodnesses.
So you're saying _absent_ battery could still stop it starting. (could
he get past that by poking a bit of the appropriate voltage? Could be dangerous though.)>
Just to point out, a number of things could cause
a failure to jump to the "first instruction".
*******
You can use a negative test result as a positive test result.
If you pull the RAM out of a desktop, it beeps the piezo
in the No RAM Detected pattern. If you hear this, it
verifies a bit of basic functionality, that you have come
out of RESET and so on.
Some amount of BIOS code is register
based, and does not need scratch RAM storage to run. Later,
after the register-based code has configured the RAM
controller and the RAM starts, the code is in a better position
to switch to conventional coding techniques.
On a laptop, that's about the most practical "beep code" to trigger.
On a soldered-down-RAM laptop, you have limited choices for
that sort of test.
I'm pretty sure Boris is stuck in RESET, or the power management
has had a major failure of some sort. You could do the RAM test
for fun though, as long as the cover comes off easily to do it.
Well, Boris has transferred the drive to something to get stuff off it,
so I assume he's opened the laptop already (unless it had a drive flap).>
Some UEFI will fail, based on what they read off the hard drive.If the main processor won't start, would you expect the graphics "card"
Disconnecting the storage may allow something to start, if
that was the root cause of the failure. I have one 4TB Seagate
drive here, if an OS is loaded on the disk, the Test Machine hangs.
Only if the Seagate drive has a 4TB data partition on it, does
that disk "allow" the machine to start. I have to use Hot Plug
with that drive, to get past a boot and do maintenance on the drive.
As you can imagine, this is very annoying, I checked and that
version of the drive has no corresponding flash update for the
drive firmware. (Such drive firmware is stored on the platter, as
it's cheaper to do it that way.)
Paul
to? I'm thinking a _long_ way back, but I have a vague memory of
something being visible on the screen, in the days when desktop machines
had a specific graphic card, even if the mainboard wasn't running (I
_think_ even if the processor was unplugged, not sure about that).
https://postimg.cc/crnFCrQJ
I'm not quite clear about what stuck in RESET means, or how to get out, if so. But for fun, I put the SSD back into the laptop, put the battery back in, removed the memory module, plugged the charger in (the white light
went on), and tried to start the laptop. No beeps, no starting.
I removed the charger, put the memory module back in, plugged in the
charger, and tried to start the laptop. Nothing. While the charger was still plugged in, I removed the memory module. No beeps.
On Wed, 11/12/2025 2:21 PM, Boris wrote:
I'm not quite clear about what stuck in RESET means, or how to get out,
if so. But for fun, I put the SSD back into the laptop, put the
battery back in, removed the memory module, plugged the charger in (the
white light went on), and tried to start the laptop. No beeps, no
starting.
I removed the charger, put the memory module back in, plugged in the
charger, and tried to start the laptop. Nothing. While the charger
was still plugged in, I removed the memory module. No beeps.
I'm pretty sure at the moment, we will not trick it back to life.
Some flaw prevents forward motion.
*******
At one time, when we did hardware, we would generate an asynchronous
reset signal. It was created by a monostable, had a fixed pulse width,
and for fun we used to set that pulse width to half a second to one
second. The signal would be active low, and an example would look like
this.
5V | ------+ +---------- (Active low RESET)
| |___________|
0V +------------------------------ time (seconds)
T=0 T=0.5
Each piece of logic receiving the signal, would stop functioning and
enter the "first state" of its state machine. Such an activity, is
the "ordering all the hardware into a known and correct state".
When CPUs came along, a new issue came up. Not all the power converters charged their capacitors at the same time. There could be eight to ten "rails" that rise. We do NOT want the CPU to run, until all ten power
sources are fully charged. They show this state of nirvana is entered,
via a kind of "Power_Good" signal. It means "I have done my part to
prepare for proper operation". When all power regulators report they are ready, then the CPU can be taken out of reset.
We show the dynamic nature of RESET in this (CPU world) case, by drawing
the waveform with uncertainty on the second edge. The RESET signal can
only rise, when the tenth regulator is finished doing its thing.
5V | ------+ -- --- -- ---
| |___________/ / /
0V +------------------------------ time (seconds)
T=0 0.7 0.8 0.9
OK, say that one of the power converters NEVER becomes ready. Draw
the waveform for this case.
5V | ------+
| |_______________________________________________________
| |_ _ _
0V +---------------------------------------------- time (hours)
T=0
Now the motherboard is "stuck in RESET". The signal never rises.
All logic blocks are to "remain seated" until the RESET rises and
it is "removed from play".
The RESET button on the front of the computer (for computers that
have one, the Dell struck this off), that RESET button allows
entry into the RESET state again, and pressing the RESET button
can cause an abrupt and dirty interruption on your computer. The RESET
signal only remains low for the 0.5 seconds (as all the power
converters are in the Power_Good state and there should be no
delay exiting the RESET state).
We need a minimum pulsewidth on RESET, using sound engineering
principles to determine the width. In the old ("hobbyist") days, we
selected 0.5 seconds out of convenience.
The CPU sets the actual requirement. It can be on the order of 100 usec
to give one of the PLLs inside the CPU a chance to lock properly, and
we need a stable clock inside the CPU for operation to commence.
By looking up the min. RESET value on the CPU, we can adjust
the circuit behavior to meet that requirement. But no harm
is done to the CPU, if the signal stays in the active state for
0.5 seconds or it stays in the active state for hours (and our
computer "refuses to start"). The entire machine must be designed
to function properly... for as long as it takes to exit RESET.
If it takes hours, thermally we have to tolerate this. On the
Dell Optiplex 780 the fan screams like a Hoover until the machine
comes out of RESET -- that's how it "survives". We set the fans to
MAX as a solution to thermal issues, that is one way to do it.
More modern designs can have more clever closed loop feedback
for this.
In any case, that's just to describe how a failure of the
machine to "sequence" properly, prevents forward progress.
Any gate that is part of the RESET logic path can say
"hey, I'm not ready, wait for meee...".
You can bring a computer out of reset, it executes the
reset vector and jumps to a magic address. But if the
first instruction does not execute properly, the
computer can crash, it can enter a state where it
executes NOPS forever (or, until it is reset again).
While the hardware inside the CPU may register
a Machine Check Exception (MCE), there is no way for
anyone to find out that is asserted.
Your laptop has entered one of these states, and
is currently toast, until you figure out what is
going on. Sometimes, the symptom-set, the "little things"
the computer was doing that seemed weird, those
can hint what actually happened on the fateful day
when it stopped.
For example, when a computer here sent this
beautiful puff of gray smoke out the PSU vent
at powerup, that was a signal to me "hey, dummy,
you've got about a week to replace this PSU before
it blows and damages something". That's an example
of taking note of a weirdness, while you have a chance.
The puff of gray smoke, comes from a drying electrolytic
capacitor, that is heating up a bit at powerup. When
it fails short, there will be trouble.
Paul
"J. P. Gilliver" <G6JPG@255soft.uk> wrote in news:10f22ol$17evh$1@dont-
email.me:
aA thought: look around the power-in connector: they're a common source
of problems, and just reflowing the solder _may_ work. I know you said
fromlight comes on, but a poor connection might be letting through just
enough power to do that but not run the laptop.
The charging female receptacle is screwed into the case, and the wires
it lead to a plug that is plugged into the motherboard. There's no solder
to 'reflow'.
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